Thought I'd write a post on what we did and where we went, what we ate - I kept a travel journal while we were driving, so I'm going to type what I wrote, verbatim in italics, what I add now will be in regular font.
Don't know if anyone else will read it and it doesn't really matter, but I wanted to have an online copy of our trip. Our adventure... :-) Here starts part 2!
Ireland: Day 4
Full Irish breakfast at Mountain View B&B. Best coffee since being in this country. Lovely people.
Checked out and drove south towards Donegal Castle and around some big mountains on the way. Got downtown Donegal, parked and walked up to the castle. Took the tour. Really cool castle in the center of Donegal next to the river Eske. The rain started as soon as we got inside. Great timing on our part once again. Went upstairs & they had restored the banquet hall! Felt like we'd stepped back in time. Lots of fireplaces & very interesting history. Even saw two doves outside on a branch bathing together in the rain.
Left Donegal Castle and kept driving south.
On the drive down between Sligo and Donegal, we drove off the beaten path to find a friary/castle but it was private. Then drove off again on the R279 in Mullaghmore to find another castle/manor house. It too was private but we got to see awesome views of Donegal Bay & I got out twice, once to take photos of the cliffs and the castle and again to pet an Irish horse. Very friendly.
Got to Sligo, Co. Sligo. Decided sinc
e it was our Anniversary to stay at a castle!
Markree Castle is awesome! Reminds me of the movie The Canterville Ghost. Checked into the Johnny Cash room where he stayed with June Carter Cash back in the early 90's. So romantic... Fabulous room with a massive en suite bathroom. Left our bags in our beautiful suite and then went back into Sligo town for lunch and to see Sligo Abbey. The abbey is umm...creepy. Tons of tombs, but it had the only sculptured 15th century altar to have survived in ANY Irish monastic church. After leaving the Abbey we walked downtown to find food. Had a margherita & spiced lamb pizza at an adorable cafe downtown. Yummy! It poured down rain while we were inside which made us thankful for our timing once again.
Then went back to Markree Castle to explore the grounds. Found a 'secret' pathway through an old metal gate which was absolutely magical. Wildflowers covered the forest floor and sun started to peek through the trees. Took some awesome pictures outside and even found a 'barn cat'! Got all spiffed up for dinner at Markree. Ordered a bottle of wine from Spain - "Marques de la Villa Tinto de Toro '08". I ordered the guinea fowl stuffed with wild mushrooms & DH had the duck leg. Delicious! Had some sort of chocolate goodness for dessert. Then went into the sitting room to continue drinking our wine, then retired to our room for the evening. Great 2nd Anniversary.
Checked out and drove south towards Donegal Castle and around some big mountains on the way. Got downtown Donegal, parked and walked up to the castle. Took the tour. Really cool castle in the center of Donegal next to the river Eske. The rain started as soon as we got inside. Great timing on our part once again. Went upstairs & they had restored the banquet hall! Felt like we'd stepped back in time. Lots of fireplaces & very interesting history. Even saw two doves outside on a branch bathing together in the rain.
Left Donegal Castle and kept driving south.
On the drive down between Sligo and Donegal, we drove off the beaten path to find a friary/castle but it was private. Then drove off again on the R279 in Mullaghmore to find another castle/manor house. It too was private but we got to see awesome views of Donegal Bay & I got out twice, once to take photos of the cliffs and the castle and again to pet an Irish horse. Very friendly.
Got to Sligo, Co. Sligo. Decided sinc
e it was our Anniversary to stay at a castle!Markree Castle is awesome! Reminds me of the movie The Canterville Ghost. Checked into the Johnny Cash room where he stayed with June Carter Cash back in the early 90's. So romantic... Fabulous room with a massive en suite bathroom. Left our bags in our beautiful suite and then went back into Sligo town for lunch and to see Sligo Abbey. The abbey is umm...creepy. Tons of tombs, but it had the only sculptured 15th century altar to have survived in ANY Irish monastic church. After leaving the Abbey we walked downtown to find food. Had a margherita & spiced lamb pizza at an adorable cafe downtown. Yummy! It poured down rain while we were inside which made us thankful for our timing once again.
Then went back to Markree Castle to explore the grounds. Found a 'secret' pathway through an old metal gate which was absolutely magical. Wildflowers covered the forest floor and sun started to peek through the trees. Took some awesome pictures outside and even found a 'barn cat'! Got all spiffed up for dinner at Markree. Ordered a bottle of wine from Spain - "Marques de la Villa Tinto de Toro '08". I ordered the guinea fowl stuffed with wild mushrooms & DH had the duck leg. Delicious! Had some sort of chocolate goodness for dessert. Then went into the sitting room to continue drinking our wine, then retired to our room for the evening. Great 2nd Anniversary.
Ireland: Day 5
HUGE breakfast at Markree Castle. DH brought a massive silver tray upstairs for an intimate breakfast for two. He had the full Irish breakfast and got me french toast. It looked and tasted fried - interesting - I'll never turned down fried food; it was fabulous. Beautiful place. Sad to leave. Even got to see the Johnny & June signature in the guest registry book. Very cool to know we stayed where they stayed.
Left Markree and started south toward Carrowmore - a megalithic cemetery. It started raining as soon as we got there so we borrowed an umbrella from the OPW people. Got to see some really cool giant stones out in the fields. It's always neat to read the myths that go along with these places.
Got back on the road and saw a castle type structure by Drummard, Co. Sligo. Drove up but it was on private property. Same thing happened the next town up. In retrospect, we should've knocked on some doors and asked to go see them closer.
Found a watch tower in the middle of Killala. Built in the 12th century. Really neat tower that looks like the town was built around it. Kept driving and stopped in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim at Mary's Cottage Kitchen. Probably the best food we've had since we've been here (seriously - it was th
e best lunch during our entire trip!). I had the quiche and salad, and DH had the ham, cheese and tomato panini plus a sausage roll. We had a slice of apple tart and a rhubarb crumble! Mmm!!! Not to mention a wonderful pot of tea.
Ceide (pronounced kay-gee) Fields was next. Very interesting site. VERY windy! Right on the Atlantic. Watched a video on why the bog is there and how the old town was discovered under the bog. The cliffs were HUGE!!! Very cool to see the layers of cliffside and how they relate directly to hundreds of years.
Started driving south toward Galway. Drove around Ox Mountain which had fog at the top of it making it look unseemly tall! DH found a Dr. Pepper in Headford, Co. Galway. We joked about it being from Dublin...you know, Dublin Dr. Pepper...if you're familiar with Texas, you'll understand the joke... Then we thought we'd try and find a place to stay. Tried the Headford Anglers Inn but figured we could find one less expensive. Started exploring the surrou
nding roads.
Found Annaghkeen Castle. Which was awesome. A 14th century ruin. Climbed through the chink in the stone wall and explored the ruin in the field. Neat that it was right on the river/Lough Corrib. It was neat to just happen upon a ruin that we could climb all over and really explore. We were all alone so it was a very personal experience. Absolutely beautiful.
Tried a B&B we followed signs for but their gate was closed...so we figured it was too late. Drove the rest of the way to Galway. Took a spin around town (its surprisingly big!), and found a B&B on the north side of town. Brook Lodge B&B. Checked in, then went back into town for a late dinner at McSwiggans Pub & Restaurant. I had the chicken kiev and DH had the chicken special stuffed with cream cheese and wrapped in bacon. We ordered a half bottle of chardonnay from Australia. Then shared a brownie and ice cream for dessert. VERY good food.
Left Markree and started south toward Carrowmore - a megalithic cemetery. It started raining as soon as we got there so we borrowed an umbrella from the OPW people. Got to see some really cool giant stones out in the fields. It's always neat to read the myths that go along with these places.
Got back on the road and saw a castle type structure by Drummard, Co. Sligo. Drove up but it was on private property. Same thing happened the next town up. In retrospect, we should've knocked on some doors and asked to go see them closer.
Found a watch tower in the middle of Killala. Built in the 12th century. Really neat tower that looks like the town was built around it. Kept driving and stopped in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim at Mary's Cottage Kitchen. Probably the best food we've had since we've been here (seriously - it was th
e best lunch during our entire trip!). I had the quiche and salad, and DH had the ham, cheese and tomato panini plus a sausage roll. We had a slice of apple tart and a rhubarb crumble! Mmm!!! Not to mention a wonderful pot of tea.Ceide (pronounced kay-gee) Fields was next. Very interesting site. VERY windy! Right on the Atlantic. Watched a video on why the bog is there and how the old town was discovered under the bog. The cliffs were HUGE!!! Very cool to see the layers of cliffside and how they relate directly to hundreds of years.
Started driving south toward Galway. Drove around Ox Mountain which had fog at the top of it making it look unseemly tall! DH found a Dr. Pepper in Headford, Co. Galway. We joked about it being from Dublin...you know, Dublin Dr. Pepper...if you're familiar with Texas, you'll understand the joke... Then we thought we'd try and find a place to stay. Tried the Headford Anglers Inn but figured we could find one less expensive. Started exploring the surrou
nding roads.Found Annaghkeen Castle. Which was awesome. A 14th century ruin. Climbed through the chink in the stone wall and explored the ruin in the field. Neat that it was right on the river/Lough Corrib. It was neat to just happen upon a ruin that we could climb all over and really explore. We were all alone so it was a very personal experience. Absolutely beautiful.
Tried a B&B we followed signs for but their gate was closed...so we figured it was too late. Drove the rest of the way to Galway. Took a spin around town (its surprisingly big!), and found a B&B on the north side of town. Brook Lodge B&B. Checked in, then went back into town for a late dinner at McSwiggans Pub & Restaurant. I had the chicken kiev and DH had the chicken special stuffed with cream cheese and wrapped in bacon. We ordered a half bottle of chardonnay from Australia. Then shared a brownie and ice cream for dessert. VERY good food.
Ireland: Day 6
Took off from Brook Lodge B&B and headed south. Stopped on the side of the road to see Dunguaire Castle. Didn't go all the way inside but took lots of pictures outside. Kept driving south towards the west coast veered off a few times to see old keeps an
d then got onto a really really really small road called the "corkscrew" - up to the Cliffs of Moher. Very touristy...but totally breathtaking. Neat museum inside. Extreme wind outside. Wish there hadn't been so many people.
Kept driving and spent the night in Bunratty town between Shannon and Limerick. Checked into a place kinda on their main drag that shall remain nameless since it was terrible. It was more of a hotel than a B&B, but we learned that you should never stay in a B&B that isn't Shamrock Approved. No credit card even after she said she'd accept it (quoted DH a higher rate than we would've gotten at a B&B but said 'since I'm giving you a good rate, you'll pay cash, right?' - this is after he asked if she took credit cards...). No wifi even though they said they had it. It was there...but we couldn't get online which was extremely frustrating. Went out to eat at Durty Nellie's. I had a pint of Harp and traditional Irish stew. DH had the fish & chips and a pint of Guinness. Fantastic dinner. Great pub atmosphere.
d then got onto a really really really small road called the "corkscrew" - up to the Cliffs of Moher. Very touristy...but totally breathtaking. Neat museum inside. Extreme wind outside. Wish there hadn't been so many people.Kept driving and spent the night in Bunratty town between Shannon and Limerick. Checked into a place kinda on their main drag that shall remain nameless since it was terrible. It was more of a hotel than a B&B, but we learned that you should never stay in a B&B that isn't Shamrock Approved. No credit card even after she said she'd accept it (quoted DH a higher rate than we would've gotten at a B&B but said 'since I'm giving you a good rate, you'll pay cash, right?' - this is after he asked if she took credit cards...). No wifi even though they said they had it. It was there...but we couldn't get online which was extremely frustrating. Went out to eat at Durty Nellie's. I had a pint of Harp and traditional Irish stew. DH had the fish & chips and a pint of Guinness. Fantastic dinner. Great pub atmosphere.
Ireland: Day 7
Woke up to ants ALL over the room but mostly in our bed which explained the bite marks on me.Checked out of the hotel/B&B as soon as breakfast was over, told our host about the ants and were kind of expecting to get some sort of discount but we didn't. She seemed accusatory like we'd brought them in or something and demanded to see them. I can understand the upsetting attitude especially if she had no former knowledge of the ants, but her being upset just added to our horrible time there. Anyhow - you live you learn - we vowed never to stay at a B&B that wasn't Shamrock Approved again!
Started driving into town. Almost went into Bunratty Castle till I saw the high admission prices. eeep! Did however check out their gift shop. DH got a hat. Then drove down the road to an Irish winery!!! Kinda. They make a mead and potcheen. Tried potcheen for the first time...it's very much like moonshine! Interesting. Got a jug of Honeymoon Mead. :-) Very tasty.
Started driving south towards Cork. Veered off the road following signs for castles. Stopped near Quin at Craggaunowen Castle. They call it a "Living Past Experience". Neat re-creations of thatched roofed huts etc. Plus they had the actual leather skinned boat from the Brendan Voyage inside this neat glass boathouse type building. We got inside just in time for the rain to come down. :-) Took to the road again and drove past another castle - Knappogue, but didn't stop.
Kept driving south and straight into the town of Blarney. Parked in the Blarney Castle parking lot and found out they don't take credit cards. Searched town for an ATM (the one in the grocery store was out of order, so we hit the one at the Woolen Mills) then went in to Blarney Castle. Really impressive structure. 8ft thick walls and HUGE. DH ventured in to the dungeon below the castle. Very small dripping wet passageways. I stayed in the second chamber while he went a bit farther. We climbed out, then we climbed up to the Castle and past the "murder hole" and up, up, up the winding staircase to the tallest parapet where the Blarney Stone is. Laid down and hung over the castle wall and kissed it! Way cool. The views from the top were incredible!!! Green for miles! After kissing the Blarney Stone, we made our way back down through the Castle and outside then ventured into the Rock Close. Really magical feeling inside those walls. Big willows and huge old trees. Plus Druid Stones and the Witches Kitchen, and Wishing Steps etc. Really fun place to see. I felt like I would see fairies at any moment. It's truly a place where magic exists.
Drove down to Bandon, Co. Cork where DH's 1/2 marathon is and tried to find a place to stay. Was bustled inside a B&B on the side of the highway and almost plied with tea but I adamantly declined because we wanted/needed to pay with a credit card which she didn't have a machine for. Tried a place downtown too (above a Pub) and were debating...started randomly driving down the highway farther south looking for Shamrock Approved places and saw a sign for a B&B called Ard na Greine! It had a shamrock on the sign! ;-) Bingo! Whipped the car in its direction
and not 50ft from the road we saw a white horse. A beautiful creature standing in the setting sun. That was my good luck sign. I knew we were on the right path. So we kept going and found Ard na Greine. A big old yellow farmhouse. DH went in to inquire about prices and whatnot and then came back to get me. Norma Walsh owns it and the dairy farm adjacent. Plus a giant Newfoundland named Benson (who'd greeted us when we pulled up). Norma bustled us inside and sat us down in her sitting room then not 5 minutes later she had hot tea and her homemade scones sitting in front of us. Ooooh so good!!! Wifi in our room AND she takes credit cards! Thank god! Norma suggested a restaurant in the nearby town of Clonakilty called The Mill House Granary restaurant. She even drew us a map. Great place. Nice owner. I had the Shannonvale Chicken, which had a rich white wine creme sauce and white pudding stuffing. To die for!!! DH had the fish pie. Everything was delicious. Very romantic and definitely one of our best dinners if not THE best dinner we had during our trip.
Started driving into town. Almost went into Bunratty Castle till I saw the high admission prices. eeep! Did however check out their gift shop. DH got a hat. Then drove down the road to an Irish winery!!! Kinda. They make a mead and potcheen. Tried potcheen for the first time...it's very much like moonshine! Interesting. Got a jug of Honeymoon Mead. :-) Very tasty.
Started driving south towards Cork. Veered off the road following signs for castles. Stopped near Quin at Craggaunowen Castle. They call it a "Living Past Experience". Neat re-creations of thatched roofed huts etc. Plus they had the actual leather skinned boat from the Brendan Voyage inside this neat glass boathouse type building. We got inside just in time for the rain to come down. :-) Took to the road again and drove past another castle - Knappogue, but didn't stop.
Kept driving south and straight into the town of Blarney. Parked in the Blarney Castle parking lot and found out they don't take credit cards. Searched town for an ATM (the one in the grocery store was out of order, so we hit the one at the Woolen Mills) then went in to Blarney Castle. Really impressive structure. 8ft thick walls and HUGE. DH ventured in to the dungeon below the castle. Very small dripping wet passageways. I stayed in the second chamber while he went a bit farther. We climbed out, then we climbed up to the Castle and past the "murder hole" and up, up, up the winding staircase to the tallest parapet where the Blarney Stone is. Laid down and hung over the castle wall and kissed it! Way cool. The views from the top were incredible!!! Green for miles! After kissing the Blarney Stone, we made our way back down through the Castle and outside then ventured into the Rock Close. Really magical feeling inside those walls. Big willows and huge old trees. Plus Druid Stones and the Witches Kitchen, and Wishing Steps etc. Really fun place to see. I felt like I would see fairies at any moment. It's truly a place where magic exists.
Drove down to Bandon, Co. Cork where DH's 1/2 marathon is and tried to find a place to stay. Was bustled inside a B&B on the side of the highway and almost plied with tea but I adamantly declined because we wanted/needed to pay with a credit card which she didn't have a machine for. Tried a place downtown too (above a Pub) and were debating...started randomly driving down the highway farther south looking for Shamrock Approved places and saw a sign for a B&B called Ard na Greine! It had a shamrock on the sign! ;-) Bingo! Whipped the car in its direction
and not 50ft from the road we saw a white horse. A beautiful creature standing in the setting sun. That was my good luck sign. I knew we were on the right path. So we kept going and found Ard na Greine. A big old yellow farmhouse. DH went in to inquire about prices and whatnot and then came back to get me. Norma Walsh owns it and the dairy farm adjacent. Plus a giant Newfoundland named Benson (who'd greeted us when we pulled up). Norma bustled us inside and sat us down in her sitting room then not 5 minutes later she had hot tea and her homemade scones sitting in front of us. Ooooh so good!!! Wifi in our room AND she takes credit cards! Thank god! Norma suggested a restaurant in the nearby town of Clonakilty called The Mill House Granary restaurant. She even drew us a map. Great place. Nice owner. I had the Shannonvale Chicken, which had a rich white wine creme sauce and white pudding stuffing. To die for!!! DH had the fish pie. Everything was delicious. Very romantic and definitely one of our best dinners if not THE best dinner we had during our trip. 
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